Monday, July 27, 2009

Traveling after Teaching (Yangshuo)

Unfortunately, I have to begin this entry with one of the stupidest things I think I have ever done. After I got out of Guilin’s airport I took a taxi to the bus station (Yangshuo is an hour south of Guilin by bus). As soon as I got to the bus station, I paid the taxi cab driver and got on a bus to Yangshuo with my backpack. As soon as I stepped on the bus, I yelled a series of obscenities-I had just realized that I left my suitcase in the trunk of the taxi. A man that seemed to be a manager of the buses told me to come with him. We went to a taxi cab company and they said there was nothing they could do about it. We went to talk to some other taxi cab drivers and they gave us a number. We called the number but it didn’t seem like it helped much. Finally we figured that since it was an airport taxi that someone would be in charge of them at the airport. The man told me we had to go back to the airport to see if we could talk to someone. After the 40 minutes it took to get back to the airport, we found the woman in charge of the drivers. In true Chinese fashion, as soon as we began to present my predicament to the woman, a crowd of taxi cab drivers gathered around, each wanting to put in their two cents, each sounding as though they were the authority on the matter. At one point, while trying to explain something to the man, I had to turn around to shush the taxi cab drivers to make myself even audible to the man.
(sidenote: this is a common characteristic among Chinese people-any public situation that seems even slightly out of the ordinary is met with a crowd of people. Furthermore, any such situation that necessitates some sort of assistance or information on the part of the second party can easily be met with not one, but many other parties. I’ll present you with a few examples. Just today while I was eating lunch, a woman dramatically dropped her tray of food just as she was walking away from the counter. Now, normally, one would expect people to turn around to see what the commotion was about. However, people did not just turn around from their seats. People actually got up OUT OF their seats to stand around the mess…just looking at it. A few days ago at the airport, a woman was throwing a tantrum and seemed to be having some sort of mental breakdown. Two men were trying to get her under control but to no avail as she continued to scream, throw her cell phone against the ground, and kick her legs. A crowd of at least fifty gathered around to stare. I’ve even seen people watch and stare at men working on the light poles on a street.)
The woman made a call to her taxi cab drivers. Amazingly, a minute later one called back and said he had it. We got his phone number and taxi number. We had to take the airport shuttle back, which was another 40 minutes. Before the man called the taxi cab driver, he sat me down and basically said that he wouldn’t call the driver unless I paid him 100 yuan. I was like, “What…the…fuck.” I just spent 85 on a taxi cab ride to the bus station, and then 80 for our tickets to the airport and back. I tried to reason with him…partially because I knew that he didn’t make 100 yuan in maybe even a few days worth of work, but he would not listen or bargain with me. Then we had to take a bus to the place where we were going to meet the driver. After I got my luggage, he had the gall to ask me to call him if I was going to stay in Guilin longer. “Yea, you just screwed me out of 100 yuan, I think I can really trust you to show me a good time in Guilin, you fuckhead.” What’s funny is that when I came back to Guilin, I saw him leading some other foreigner around. I was really tempted to come up to him and tell the foreigner to watch out for him.
After visiting Yangshuo, it very well may be my favorite city in China. It is in south central China and has become a popular destination for backpackers in the last few years or so. Yangshuo has one of the most recognizable natural landscapes that China has to offer. Thin lime stone mountains, covered in vegetation, jut up jaggedly from the ground. Although it is fairly touristy (as any place of interest is in China), it was still a pretty small town/city and there was so much to do there. I didn’t arrive until later in the afternoon because of my ordeal. As soon as I stepped off the bus in Yangshuo, I was greeted by a young man who came up to me and said, “Do you need hostel? Hostel?” I said, “No, I’ve already booked with Monkey Jane’s Hostel.” The man replied, “No! Monkey Jane’s will f--- your money! They will f--- your money!” I said, “I don’t care, Monkey Jane’s was recommended to me by many people and I intend to keep my reservation.” Then he said, “OK…well I can take you there.” So I got on the back of his motorbike and he dropped me off not far away. On the way, he told me, “How about you come to my hostel today and then if you like, you stay.” I said, “Nope!” That guy charged me twenty for which should have been a five yuan ride. After that, he pointed me in the wrong direction to Monkey Jane’s. Yea, see if I stay at your hostel, you jerk off.
I was first told about Monkey Jane’s after some teachers from my city went there over the Spring Festival holiday. They said it was some of the most fun they ever had staying at a hostel. Monkey Jane is owned by the woman of its namesake. She might be the most untraditional Chinese woman I have ever met…which actually goes for every woman who worked at Monkey Jane’s, but Monkey Jane in particular. She would swear at guests, get drunk with her guests, and openly talk about her sexual escapades with her guests. Her rooftop bar is infamous for its beer pong. Monkey Jane guests can win free t-shirts by beating her at beer pong. Every single night of the four nights in Yangshuo, I stayed on her rooftop bar. Great fun had by all!
Two of the most interesting people I met at Monkey Jane’s were two guys who said they were working in Bali, Indonesia. Both were in their mid to late twenties and said they had planned on going to a few different countries, spending some time working at each one, but they have stayed in Bali for the last 9 months. They have the ultimate bachelor’s pad and are getting into some real business there.
But back to Yangshuo itself. The first full day I had, I went biking with my roommate, an American named Richard, and a guy I met at the bar the night before, Daniel, from Costa Rica. Richard didn’t end up striking the right cord with me by the end of the day, and you’ll see why, but Daniel was one of the nicest, most laid back people I have ever met. We decided that a good route would be to go to a town north of Yangshuo called Xing Ping, because apparently they had a good weekend market. Also, we would have the option of taking a raft down the river back to Yangshuo. As we made our way to Xing Ping, we stopped at a run down convenience store and noodle place to avoid the few minutes of torrential rainfall. I don’t know why, but it was a fairly striking moment being on the side of this road with some poorer Chinese people, eating some tasty noodles while the rain was coming down. You just had to be there, I suppose.
Afterwards we continued our trek. After another 45 minutes or so we got to Xing Ping. It was relatively touristy, but the main streets were definitely alive with the market. However, merchants and people trying to get us to do boat tours on the river constantly hounded us. One woman would not leave us alone. I told her that we didn’t want anything and to go away, but she persisted. What makes me even angrier in these situations is when the other person smiles, as if they think you are joking…which is what this woman was doing (again, I think this is a Chinese characteristic…where as we do it to intentionally piss someone off more, they do it to say, “Hey, nothing is wrong.” But nevertheless, I always interpret it in the former). I finally got the woman to go away.
After leaving Xing Ping, we began to follow a trail on the map. The trail was along the river and we had to cross by ferry at one point. Just beautiful scenery, as you can see from the pictures.
Finally at one point, we realized that we were on a walking trail and it was impossible to go any further on our bikes so we had to find an alternate route. This alternate route snaked all around and on top of the mountains…and it was a dirt and gravel road, which made it particularly to pedal on. We stopped at some points just to take in everything around us. Finally we got on an actual paved bike trail (yes!) and it was basically smooth sailing from there (the last 15 km being almost entirely downhill. We stopped at a beekeeper’s tent to see if they had any water for us. They did, but then Richard asked if they had tea, and they did. Then, Richard asked if they had honey, and of course they had loads of it. Note that all this time Richard is speaking English and is making no effort in trying to use me to translate (which may not have helped THAT much) or to use body language to get his point across. He was also doing it before at the noodle place. Clearly, they were poor and assumedly not well educated. I said, “They don’t understand English, man,” but he continued. Finally he asked if they had any bread, which I thought got past a certain point and got into the realm of taking advantage of their already generous hospitality. So finally I lit into him a little bit, but he didn’t see what the big deal was. Later I talked to Daniel and he said, “I think you and I were on the same page…but Richard…”
In any case, we had pure honey and it was amazing.
By the time we got back, the sun had already set. We estimated that we had road our bikes somewhere between 60 and 70 km. Needless to say, we were all exhausted.
The next day, I decided to go out to a cave, which is a popular destination spot for tourists. I decided to bike out to the cave and it only took about half an hour or so. I had never really gone spelunking (cave exploring) before, so it was a good experience. At one point, there was a mud bath that had really thick mud that we bathed ourselves in. Of course, our great tour guide didn’t tell us anything about the geological history of the formations, but she expressed concern in showing us formations that looked like recognizable objects or people. “Look, it’s Santa Claus!” “It’s Buddha! See the belly!” “Take a picture of this! It’s a toothbrush!” It reminded me of my tour guide in Pingyao…”Look, a chair!” In any case, the cave was really cool. Unfortunately I didn’t have my camera because I knew it could have easily gotten broken, muddy, or wet. After we left the cave, we hiked around the mountain and jumped in a pool at the entrance of the cave to get cleaned up.
My final day I decided to try something else I had never done before---rock climbing! It was hard as hell! I went with a guy from Jerusalem named Ayer, who was my roommate after Richard left. I was able to do about three and a half climbs, but by then, my arms were spaghetti. I literally had trouble tying my shoes without my arms shaking. It was fun though. The hardest part, along with constantly using your upper body strength, was positioning your body in such a way was sometimes the only way to get past a point. The only way to know how to position your body in a certain way at a given point was from experience.
The morning after that I left Yangshuo to spend the night in Guilin for my flight to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Luckily, my trip back to Guilin and the Guilin airport was completely uneventful.

Saturday, July 25, 2009

Qingdao and soccer updates

Well, in true China fashion, the server I use for my blog, www.blogger.com, has been blocked as well as other frequently used sites such as Twitter and Flickr. Luckily I found a proxy (an anonymous server that can bypass such blocks) to access my blog. As my Scottish friend, Mike, put it, "This censored internet shite really does my tits in!"

Since I wrote last, I have traveled to two more totally sweet places in China. The one I will relay to you now is from Qingdao. Spellbinding stories abound...

The place we traveled to in the middle of May was called Qingdao which is famously known as the "Beer Capital of China", producing China's most well known beer, Tsing Tao, as well as another beer, Lao Shan. Qingdao is also particularly interesting because of its German influence (it was colonized by Germany many moons ago). After some false starts, I was finally able to round up a few people to come with me. James, an awkward and awkwardly tall Scottish bloke, Amit, and Willie. Now for some reason, there are only a few ways to get from Shijiazhuang to Qingdao directly. One is by a bus that leaves at 8:30 and 11:30 in the morning, the other is by a train that leaves at 10:00 p.m. As a result of conflicting class schedules, our only option was the night train. Now, before going to buy the tickets I knew that the train did not have sleeping cars (cars that have beds) but rather just had seats. This made James a little hesitant to come, but everyone was still in. Even when I went to buy the tickets two or three days earlier, they told me they were sold out of seats. Dumbstruck, I bought four standing-only tickets. The train takes about 8 hours so I knew at least James would not be happy. I actually thought about not telling them that I could only get standing tickets until we met at the bar right before leaving to get on the train, but I thought better of it. I sent out a text to all three of the other adventurers with the best reply being James' which simply read, "haha, good joke." Willie and Amit were down (even with Amit's still healing broken toe) and with a little coaxing James was aboard again. Come Thursday night we meet at the bar and have a few beers to prep us for what could be a really really crappy night. When we arrived at the train station we bought two small, Chinese, fold out seats and two 9 packs of big beers and had a couple before it was time to get on our train. Amazingly enough, as we got on the train and people settled down, we noticed that there were a few seats open and we were all able to take one. However we all were sitting in different places. A female college student we befriended sat next to me as she translated between an older man and me. As I drank more my tongue began to loosen and the Chinese man sitting next to me (who could actually speak much better English than the college student) cut in on some of my answers by saying, "That's not an appropriate answer" or something along those lines. I think one of the questions the older man had asked was, "How long have you been in China?" and my response was, "9 months, but it feels like 2 years." I didn't mean it in a negative way really, I have just seen and experienced so much while I've been here! In any case, I passed out after a little while.

The next morning I woke up bright and early at around 7 or so...and guess what, still on the train! Still a bit intoxicated from the night before, I cracked open a beer. The breakfast of champions! I picked up two more and brought them to Amit and James who were also awake while lucky 'ol Willie had taken advantage of an entire row being open and laid down and was still passed out hard. Still drinking on the way to our hostel, we had possibly the nicest Chinese hippie ever set us up and give us our room keys. After being settled in and taking some showers, we decided it was high time to grab some lunch (with some beer, of course!) and then mosey on down to the Tsing Tao brewery.

The brewery was what one would expect: information on the founding and history of the brewery, the basic ingredients of beer, how it is brewed, etc. Halfway through the tour we got to a "resting point" where we could try "raw beer", right before it goes through its last process of being brewed. It tasted a bit different, kind of liken cold, stale beer, but it was alright. While enjoying our fine brew, I noticed a commotion to our left and several westerners (British I was assuming) were taking pictures of something. I looked again and saw that a Chinese toddler was drinking some beer. This girl could not have been any older than four years old and her parents were watching her drink beer while being photographed by a gaggle of the Commonwealth. After a while, the girl realized she was the undeniable center of attention and started to cry as her father took her away. "Man," I thought to myself, "that shit would never fly in the States."

At the end of the tour, the hallway opened up to a huge beer hall where we got a free pitcher of beer. Following the pitcher we downed several cheap pints. Behind me, I noticed a girl, who could not have been more than 12 years old drinking some beer. She did not have much left in her glass, so I looked directly at her, held up my glass, and firmly said, "Ganbei!" 'Ganbei', which literally translates to "dry glass" is the word you say to signify that you and your drinking partner(s) will chug the entire glass. She did and I did, and her parents immediately wanted pictures of her with me.

After this we ate dinner at a Tex-Mex restaurant and then went out clubbing. The cabby totally screwed us on the fare to the Tex-Mex restaurant. Although it was rush hour, it took 20-30 minutes to get there...but later we realized that it was about a five minute ride from our hostel. He definitely went the long way. Oh! After the Tex-Mex James got mad at me because these two Chinese teenagers were staring at us and I drunkenly followed them for half a block. In his rather thick Scottish accent, James yelled, "What the fuck do you think you're doing!?" I really didn't have a good answer for him.

The next day we decided to go to the beach which was a five minute walk from our hostel. The weather was really the best, so we just walked along the beach and made a poor excuse for a sand castle. We also visited one of the highest points in the city that gave us a panoramic view of the city. It was a great view! Later on we went to a German restaurant and I ordered a huge plate of sausages with beer! It was to die for.

That was about the extent of our Qingdao trip



Other updates:

- My football (soccer) team played a match two Fridays ago. The team we played was a rematch against the only team that we have ever lost against. The other team was playing cheap the entire time, especially one or two players. One older, larger gentleman pulled on jerseys, kicked people when they were down, and pushed. After one penalty shot and a couple excellent plays by our forwards, we had a comfortable lead of 3-1. At the end, of the game, one our midfielders was guarding the big man on the other team and our midfielder simply kicked the ball out of bounds. The big man literally turned around and kicked our midfielder square in the shin, making no attempt at even going for the ball. Our midfielder, Patrick, put his hands up as if to say that he was innocent and had not done anything wrong before the big man started yelling at him and pushed him. At this point, both teams swarmed the situation and we had to hold Patrick back from beating the crap out of the big guy. Patrick is shorter than I am, but considering his muscle mass, he could've probably taken the bigger guy. Anyway, the game unfortunately ended on this sour note with a lot of yelling and obscene hand gestures from our side. What pee'd us off even more was that the manager of the field (the guy we had to pay to use the field), who also seemed to be doubling as the other team's coach came over to us and said that the big guy was going for the ball and that we should not play so hard when we have a lead. He said this with a huge grin on his face pee'd me/us off even more (side note: one thing I think I have figured out is that Chinese people will smile when there is a potentially volatile situation to show that nothing is amiss whereas in the West we take that as a real jackass thing to do). If I spoke Chinese a whole lot better than I do now, I would have told them that 1. We all saw what happened clear as day so you can go to hell and 2. Next time, when we have a lead, we'll just walk off the field and let the other team knock a few goals in. One of the other guys on our team, an African said, "If I would've been in Patrick's place, I would have killed that man."

- After losing what we thought would be our last soccer match, we decided that we had to play-and win-one last soccer match. So Hugo set up a match with a student team from one of the universities in Shijiazhuang. We played the game and were giving them quite a thrashing (the score being 9-1 towards the end of the game). However, towards the end of the game, the ball was out of play for some reason and so I started walking back towards our goal when I heard a huge commotion behind me. I looked behind me and some spectator from the sidelines had run onto the field (while the game is still on, mind you), had tackled a player on the opposing team and started punching him mercilessly in the face. Everyone on my team just began to feel dumbfounded when ANOTHER spectator from the sidelines ran with his shirt off, screaming something in Chinese, with what appeared to be a knife in his hand. He ran after some other guy on the opposing team and a big brawl ensued for about 10 minutes. At this point, our team just walked off the field and called it a day, still very confused about what just happened. We tried asking around to see what they were fighting about but no one had any clue. We assumed it was something personal. After the game, a friend of mine who was unable to play that day called me and asked me how the game went. I told the story about the fight and he replied, "Sometimes it's a very very bad idea to lose."

The other day I was dumbfounded by the amount of reading I have been able to accomplish while I have been here in China. I don't think I read more even while being an English Major in school (but let's face it...how much reading did I ACTUALLY do in school?) Partly because of the free time, extensive amount of traveling, and being relatively geographically isolated from my friends.

The Sound and The Fury
Being There
Death of Salesman
Ulysses
Mind Into Matter
God of Small Things
The Great Gatsby
Lolita
Geronimo Rex
The Heart is Lonely Hunter
Atonement
100 Years of Solitude
The Stranger
Stuff White People Like
The Road
Profiles in Courage
Sperm Wars
The Perks of Being a Wallflower
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test
Confederacy of Dunces
Veronika Decides to Die
The Devil and Miss Prym
The Three Musketeers

I would highly recommend Lolita, The Perks of..., and Sperm Wars, while also recommending Profiles in Courage and 100 Years of Solitude. Sorry for the boasting, but I couldn't help being proud of the accomplishment...ESPECIALLY with Ulysses.